About Virtual Tour
Jerusalem: from Jaffa Gate to the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher.
Old Jerusalem Christian Quarter Tour
We invite you to embark on a virtual tour of Jerusalem — the cradle of Christian civilization. Although the Old City is a relatively small place, it contains so many monuments, holy places, artifacts and historical sites that it will be impossible to view them all in one visit. This is why today we enter the Old Jerusalem through Jaffa Gate, visiting the square behind it, the Arab marketplace and walking down the market’s main street to the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher – the most holy shrine of Christianity. At the end of the tour we will see the landmarks around the temple. Let's go on a virtual pilgrimage
Ancient Egyptians called it Rushalimum, in Babylon it was named Urusalim — most commonly interpreted as “The City of Peace” or “Abode of Peace”. In the 11th century the biblical King David made it his capital, while his son King Solomon built the First Temple. This city has seen many historical events: the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus Christ, Jewish revolts against Roman rule in Judaea, Byzantine splendor, prayers of the Red Cross knights, cruelty of Muslim Arabs and Ottoman violence… In 1949 Jerusalem was declared the capital of Israel; since 1981 the Old City has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Danger. Jerusalem is a sacred place for three world religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam, whose sites of key religious importance are located within its limits. These are: The Wailing Wall, al-Aqsa Mosque and the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher, where we are headed.
It doesn’t mean Jerusalem is merely a historical site, for it boasts impressive contemporary development. In 2005 the city entered the top five technology centers of the planet. Many of its modern constructions, such as “King David’s harp” Bridge of Strings – are considered world-known architectural masterpieces.
Today we’re going into the walled area within the Old City, which is divided into four historical quarters: Christian Quarter, Muslim Quarter, Armenian Quarter and Jewish Quarter. We can get inside through Jaffa Gate that was built along with the Old City walls by the Ottoman ruler Suleiman the Magnificent.
Jaffa Gate is the starting point for most tourist trails, due to its location on the intersection of western Jaffa Road, which leads from the Mediterranean port of Jaffa (now part of Tel Aviv) and the southern road, which leads to Bethlehem and Hebron.
In the Middle Ages, caravans of merchandise delivered by ships entered the city through Jaffa Gate. It was also the gateway to Jerusalem for Christian pilgrims who made a great spiritual endeavor by traveling to the Holy Land. As an evidence of their pilgrimage, most of them wore Jerusalem crosses over their clothing and were held in great esteem by fellow believers.
Today Jaffa Gate is the most vibrant historic landmark in Jerusalem. Inside is a picturesque square to access the main street and start the visit of the Christian and Armenian Quarters. But first we need to pass the gate.
Jaffa Gate is the only gate of Jerusalem to face west. It was built over the ancient fortress walls in full compliance with the 16th century fortification standards. The entryway stands about 6 meters (20 feet) high. The constructors envisioned that the L-shaped passageway would slow down the attackers and render the breakthrough extremely difficult. Since the time when Jaffa Gate was inaugurated by Suleiman the Magnificent and up until now it has never been used for defensive purposes. In 1917, British general Edmund Allenby entered the Old City without any hindrance through this gate to accept the surrender of Turkish forces — these events were the beginning of British Mandate over the Holy Land.
Jaffa Gate is made of solid and large stones. Despite several architectural modifications made to its structure (both inside and outside) over the course of the last two centuries, today the renovated Jaffa Gate boasts its original appearance.
There is no doubt regarding the origin of a breach in the wall near Jaffa Gate. It is reliably known that it was made in 1898 for the German emperor Wilhelm II’s carriage and procession to pass – the Turks attached much significance to a worthy reception of their German ally. It is interesting to note that finally Kaiser Wilhelm entered Jerusalem through another gate, but the gap in the wall still exists today.
The Holy City has more than 70 names; one of them is “Shalem”, which in Hebrew literally means “full” or “complete” — probably the best indication of Jerusalem’s significance for the world civilization. The Psalmist David and King Solomon, Lord Jesus Christ and the Most Holy Mother of God, prophet Muhammad — are the names related to traditions with billions of followers around the globe. All these traditions are oddly interwoven in the four quarters of the Old City. The Muslim Quarter is the largest and the most populous, but it incorporates not only Islamic landmarks, for the Via Dolorosa — the path that Jesus walked on the way to his crucifixion — starts in this quarter. The Jewish Quarter, which is the most visited in the Old City, has not only the Wailing Wall — the place where Jews from all around the world come to pray, but also Cardo — an ancient Roman street, whose layout was also shaped by the Crusaders. Besides the Cathedral of St. James, which is the principal Armenian church, among other Armenian Quarter’s landmarks are many other institutions and people of other religions involved with art and trades. Our tour to the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher goes across the Christian Quarter, but before we go on, we will change our course a little bit to take a look around.
A little bit away from our itinerary stands the Citadel — home of the Tower of David Museum, which is dedicated to the history of Jerusalem. The city owes its status of the capital of Judah and subsequently of Israel to David — king, prophet and author of the Psalms.
According to the legend and in correspondence with reliable historical records, the site was the palace of King David. In the 2nd century BC a tower was built within the walled area of the city to protect the most vulnerable point of defense. Herod the Great made a fundamental reconstruction, adding three massive towers to fortifications, dedicating them to his brother, his wife and one of his friends. Of the three towers, only the base of one them survived until today – the rest was destroyed after the beleaguered Jerusalem fell to the Roman legions. The museum is located in the ruins of the original citadel.
The dominating position of the Citadel was much appreciated by the Crusaders: it served as a residence for the Kingdom of Jerusalem in 11th–12th centuries. Crusaders increased the height of the tower and surrounded it with a moat. From the Citadel’s height patrols surveyed the Jaffa road to protect thousands of pilgrims traveling to the city — cavalry lookouts were posted to guard the same road on the side of the sea. In 1187, the capital of the Kingdom of Jerusalem was captured and sultan Saladin, who accepted the surrender, ordered his own flag to be planted on the Tower of David. Christians, who had means to pay the ransom or those whose release was paid by the church, left the city through Jaffa Gate. Their less lucky brothers in faith were enslaved by the Muslims. The Citadel was destroyed by conquerors several times and was subsequently rebuilt again. The present-day buildings date back to 14th–16th centuries; there is no conclusive knowledge of their basements’ age.
The Tower of David Museum of the History of Jerusalem is now located in a series of chambers in the original Citadel, which is well worth spending a day to visit! On top of everything else, it’s one of the most popular promenade sites among Jerusalem residents. The Tower of David is also a venue for city festivals, theatricals, concerts and laser shows.
Before we proceed further into the rows of its shops, there are a few things to know about the Old City’s Christian Quarter before we get to its heart – the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher.
There are not many residential buildings, but many hotels, coffee shops and restaurants to accommodate and cater pilgrims and tourists. Of course there are various stores and small shops, but we will guide you through them a little later.
This is also home of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate and patriarch’s residence, Latin Patriarchate, the Monastery of Saint Savior owned by Franciscans — and a total of forty other Christian holy sites located in this quarter.
In 19th century, in the time of Ottoman rule over the Holy Land, Christian countries sought to expand their presence in Jerusalem and bought land in the area to establish their missions or open monasteries and other religious and nonreligious structures. Germany, France, Austria and Russia were the most active states. In 1898 these four European countries asked the Ottoman authorities for a new gate in the Old City walls for Christian travelers. It was called "The New Gate". By the beginning of the 20th century the flow of visitors increased severalfold due to the opening of the Suez Canal, leading to a population increase in the Christian Quarter of Jerusalem.
“Wise is the one who knows to ask questions right and to learn from examples of every person he was meant to meet by destiny”, — was the old men’s response.
“Who is the strongest man on earth?” — asked Alexander.
“Strong is the one who can overcome his own weaknesses” — responded the old men.
“Who is the world’s hero?” — asked Alexander.
“Hero is the one who can turn the hater into his loyal friend”.
“Who is the most respected person on earth” — asked the king of Macedon.
“Respected is the one who respects himself” — answered the wise men.
“Who is the richest man on earth” — continued Alexander.
“Rich is the one who is happy with all the things he has”.
“Who is happy on this earth?” — was the king’s last question.
“Happy is the man who found a beautiful wife known for graceful acts” — was the answer.
As legend has it, Alexander the Great was impressed with the terse answers given by Jerusalem’s wise men, climbed up the hill together with them and prayed to their God in the temple’s part open to foreigners.
The marketplace is an indispensable attribute of every city both in ancient times and today. It should be noted that one thousand years before Christ the city of Jerusalem already wasn’t just a center of agriculturally used areas, but as we would call it today, a major world trade hub.
Situated between the heavily populated Egypt and Asia, the city was engaged in trade and arrangement of deals for re-selling of the ancient world’s major transport facilities: ships, horses and chariots. Horses were highly demanded in Egypt, while their own product – skillfully manufactured chariots – were popular among the Asians. The Phoenicians were the best shipbuilders of the time. While a part of the vessels went for sale, most of them made part of the merchant fleet established by king Solomon. These ships brought gold, silver, blackwood, redwood, tiger skins, textiles, incenses, spices and exotic animals from Arabia, India, Africa and unidentified lands of Punt and Ophir to Jerusalem. The city was getting richer.
“And the king made silver to be in Jerusalem as stones, and cedars made he to be as the sycamore trees that are in the vale, for abundance” — this is how the First Book of the Kings describes the King Solomon’s period.
There is a certain overstatement, but the life of Jerusalem residents of that time was truly the city’s golden age.
At the same time Jerusalem residents’ way of life was quite ascetic: there was no furniture in their homes — even rich people used mats to sit on and to sleep. The local food ration included wheat and cereals, lentil, beans, onions and garlic, fruits, vegetables, milk and honey.
The meat was consumed only on holidays and wine was drunk very moderately. In general, their tables were quite richly furnished for an ancient world country — at the same time the modern choice of food and beverages would seem simply incredible to the old Jerusalem’s residents.
One of the most familiar among the Christians worldwide is the Jerusalem Icon of the Mother of God. Tradition has it that the Jerusalem Icon of the Mother of God was painted by the holy Evangelist St. Luke, fifteen years after the Ascension of the Lord and within the lifetime of the Holy Mother. The Bethlehem Icon of the Mother of God was also painted by the holy Evangelist St. Luke, and is the only to depict the Most Holy Mother of God smiling. The original is kept at the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, where it returned after two thousand years of travels. In this period it had time to be the main sacred object of Byzantine Empire, to be given as a gift to Vladimir the Great, who Christianized Russia. In 20th century the Great-martyr Elizabeth Romanova returned the icon to Bethlehem — the place where it was made. This icon is of Hodegetria type (literally “She who shows the Way”), with Mother of God pointing to Child Jesus.
Some of the icons offered at the Arab market’s shops are highly artistic, contain valuable materials and have a special certificate to simplify its export from Israel.
The Old City of Jerusalem is also related to the life of the Most Holy Mother of God. Although her family came from Nazareth, in Jerusalem her parents – Joachim and Anne – owned a house, where Virgin Mary was born. She was consecrated by the parents at the Jerusalem Temple at the age of three and remained there until majority, spending time in prayer and needlework.
Virgin Mary spent the first years of her life at the paternal home. At the beginning of Via Dolorosa Street, near the Lions’ Gate, there is a small Greek church dedicated to the Nativity of the Blessed Mary. Underneath there are two caves; one of them has a mosaic sign, marking the Most Holy Mother of God’s birthplace.
People bring fresh flowers to a hollow in the cave, where according to the legend, stood Mary’s cradle… The magnificent Church of Saint Anne was built by the Crusaders on a plot of land that earlier belonged to Joachim and Anne. A very moving sculpture of Anne and the young Mary greets people who enter the basilica.
We will be back to this place on another virtual tour, but for now we go further on across the Arab marketplace.
The air is filled with the aroma of oriental spices that are presented in a large variety on stalls. Souvenirs and jewelry, clothes to meet every fancy, bright shawls and wide Turkish pants… On the stone-block pavement lie Persian carpets — the sellers demonstrate the high quality of these products that are dustproof and retain their vivid colors forever.
The Arab market that we’re visiting in the Christian Quarter is certainly not the only one in Jerusalem. Every Thursday there is a small market in Kikar Hatulot Street, which is filled up with stalls offering all kinds of vintage artworks. Gourmets and people who love exotic products will be delighted to visit the open-air marketplace Mahane Yehuda on Jaffa Road, which is considered to be the best food market in Jerusalem… Well…Let’s return to the Arab market and continue our route to the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher and historical landmarks in its vicinity.
The origins of Armenian porcelain in Jerusalem date back to ancient times, but the true renaissance of ceramics art began after massacres committed by the Turks in 1915, when many Armenian artisans were forcibly deported and by a twist of fate settled in the Holy Land. In 1919 at the time of British mandate in Palestine, the local authorities invited David Ohanessian, a master painter of ceramic decoration, to restore the tile work on the Dome of the Rock. He brought other Armenian ceramics workers, including the master potter Nishan Balian, and the painter Megerdish Karakashian, who later founded Armenian ceramics schools that have many followers in Israel.
Of course, the ceramics offered at the Arab market of Jerusalem are mostly commercial off-the-shelf products. However, they retain the unique features of the famous centuries-old Armenian art known throughout the world.
“International Middle Eastern market” — such signs in Arab and English languages are frequently to be seen at the Arab marketplace. However, when visiting Jerusalem most people shop for Holy Land gifts that are offered here in a wide selection. We are going to take a few moments to note the most popular and interesting things to bring home as a souvenir of Israel for yourself and your closed ones.
Dead Sea cosmetics rich with unique minerals and salts are known for their great benefits. These products richly nourish the skin and hair and will be a great gift idea for women. The available range of cosmetics consists of peeling creams, peel-off masks, creams, shampoos, soaps, hair conditioners and many more — if you don’t want to get lost in this variety, your right choice would be to buy a gift set consisting of up to a dozen items.
Silver jewelry is a true mark of pride for Israeli artisans. The local craftsmanship is very delicate, original, recognizable, and fascinates many tourists. It should be also noted that jewelry with diamonds and other precious and semiprecious stones in Jerusalem is generally less expensive than in European countries.
One of the most interesting objects of this kind would be hamsa — a palm-shaped amulet containing an eye symbol. The history of this talisman goes deep into ancient times: in thousands years it took many names, such as “The hand of Hamesh” or “The hand of Mary”… The hamsa is believed to provide defense against the evil eye; now many people in Israel wear it as a decorative work, as it frequently appears on necklaces or key chains.
Same story is with the red wool string worn on the wrist — it’s meant to protect the wearer from danger or to help with the realization of a wish, which should happen about the time the thread wears out. At the same time it’s one of the most popular Jewish souvenirs around the world and a thing many people want to get from Israel. There is a belief that a red string was wound around Rachel’s tomb — the Hebrew matriarch who wept for the Jews taken into exile by Babylonian conquerors.
Recreational athletes will most certainly like matkot — a local paddle game, where you don’t need a table; it can be played virtually anywhere, even on the beach. The Five Stones will be a great gift idea for an assiduous person — this ancient game develops coordination and motor skills.
Your friends who like exotic food will be happy to taste hummus — a thick paste or spread made from ground chickpeas and other items such as cardamom coffee, olives or dates brought from Jerusalem. Due to restrictions on carry-on liquids, the local sharp wines are to be tasted locally. The most recommended ones are the rimon — a pomegranate wine and currant wines.
You can buy here a rare icon’s depiction, a cross necklace or candles of a special form — the things you won’t find at home. Local shops offer a great selection of Middle Eastern incenses that are a rare find in most countries.
Don’t be surprised if the shop assistant starts talking to you using your native language — Russian, Greek, English or another. Jerusalem is a city of many languages and the knowledge of an additional one enhances the likelihood of making more sales. That’s why most merchants here master at least a few dozen words in foreign languages to improve their business receipts.
Since Jerusalem is not only the cradle of western civilization, but also a Middle Eastern city, it will be a sign of good manners to engage into bargaining — this is usual here! That’s why upon hearing the cost for an item of interest, don’t hesitate to offer your own price and make it some 30-40% down. That should work.
Chrism — a mixture of local oil and balsam, produced according to an order of service — will be another great Holy Land gift for one of your faithful friends.
If you’re not sure whether the goods offered at the marketplace have been consecrated and you want to be sure of owning a blessed cross, icon, candle or incense from Jerusalem, feel free to use our service “Holy Land products home delivery”, which is available anywhere in the world thanks to “Jerusalem Candle” project.
The Temple of the Holy Sepulcher contains: the site where the Savior was crucified, the place where he was entombed and the site where He resurrected — these events are the crucial points of gospel narratives. The graceful building of the church was destroyed three times, was once damaged by the fire and every time it was rebuilt again.
Historically, two front doors allowed access to the Temple. However, only one is currently accessible, as the other was bricked up in the days of the Muslim rule.
On the right from the entry is located the tomb of Philippe D'Aubigny — the knight who accompanied the Roman emperor Frederick II on his crusade in the 13th century.
The column of the Holy Fire, split by the lightning in 1643 (1579?!) remembers the day when Orthodox and Greek priests argued on who is to conduct the service on the Holy Saturday. In the heat of this argument a lightning struck the column, splitting it and lit the Holy Fire… Today, five different Christian communities hold their religious services in the church, according to an established order of priority, but only an Orthodox patriarch has the right to pray in the Aedicule on Easter’s eve and meet the Holy Fire.
The Immovable Ladder is another Temple’s artifact, which is visible from outside. For many centuries it has symbolized the respect of ancient traditions and the compliance with made commitments. The ladder is referred to as “immovable” due to a mutual understanding of the present ecumenical orders that neither of Christian confessions may introduce even slightest changes to the property inside the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher without the consent of other orders.
In the meantime we will go round the church and continue our walk along the nearby Muristan Street — to see another historical landmark.
The latter owns the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer — a masterpiece of Romanesque Revival architecture — you can see its bell tower. It was built in the end of the 19th century and was dedicated on Reformation Day in the presence of German emperor Wilhelm II within the framework of his visit to Jerusalem in 1898 — the one that we mentioned earlier. The church was constructed upon the remnants of a crusader church dedicated to St. John. The inaccessible north entry retained traces of medieval work, including the signs of the zodiac. St. John’s Chapel is located on the medieval site of the old pilgrim hostel and convent named St. Mary Latine Minor in the time of the Crusaders. In the seventies the Church of the Redeemer went through a major reconstruction — in particular, picturesque mosaics were added both inside and outside.
The building itself belongs to a Hanover-based Evangelical Jerusalem Foundation, who is also the owner of the Chapel of the Ascension located on the Mount of Olives — we will be visiting it on one of our next virtual tours.
If you climb up 178 steps to the top of the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer’s bell tower, you will have a chance to enjoy an unforgettable panoramic view of the Old City’s four quarters — Christian, Muslim, Armenian and Jewish Quarters. This is probably the most magnificent view of the Holy City — the best spot to finish our sightseeing tour.
As the Psalmist David put it, “If I forget thee, O Jerusalem, my right hand shall forget its skill”. Indeed, it is impossible to forget a visit to Jerusalem.
Old Jerusalem Christian Quarter Tour
We invite you to embark on a virtual tour of Jerusalem — the cradle of Christian civilization. Although the Old City is a relatively small place, it contains so many monuments, holy places, artifacts and historical sites that it will be impossible to view them all in one visit. This is why today we enter the Old Jerusalem through Jaffa Gate, visiting the square behind it, the Arab marketplace and walking down the market’s main street to the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher – the most holy shrine of Christianity. At the end of the tour we will see the landmarks around the temple. Let's go on a virtual pilgrimage
Walls of the Old city
Metaphors are frequently used to describe famous cities. Such figurative expressions are easily understood even after translation into other world languages. For example, Rome is the Eternal City, Paris is known as the City of Love. If you hear the name of “the Holy City”, you know it refers to Jerusalem. The history of this magnificent city built of pink and white limestone harks back to dateless antiquity.Ancient Egyptians called it Rushalimum, in Babylon it was named Urusalim — most commonly interpreted as “The City of Peace” or “Abode of Peace”. In the 11th century the biblical King David made it his capital, while his son King Solomon built the First Temple. This city has seen many historical events: the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus Christ, Jewish revolts against Roman rule in Judaea, Byzantine splendor, prayers of the Red Cross knights, cruelty of Muslim Arabs and Ottoman violence… In 1949 Jerusalem was declared the capital of Israel; since 1981 the Old City has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Danger. Jerusalem is a sacred place for three world religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam, whose sites of key religious importance are located within its limits. These are: The Wailing Wall, al-Aqsa Mosque and the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher, where we are headed.
It doesn’t mean Jerusalem is merely a historical site, for it boasts impressive contemporary development. In 2005 the city entered the top five technology centers of the planet. Many of its modern constructions, such as “King David’s harp” Bridge of Strings – are considered world-known architectural masterpieces.
Today we’re going into the walled area within the Old City, which is divided into four historical quarters: Christian Quarter, Muslim Quarter, Armenian Quarter and Jewish Quarter. We can get inside through Jaffa Gate that was built along with the Old City walls by the Ottoman ruler Suleiman the Magnificent.
Jaffa gate
Jaffa Gate is one of the historic gates in Jerusalem’s Old City. It was built along with the city walls in 16th century by the Ottoman sultan Suleiman the First, commonly known as Suleiman the Great or Suleiman the Magnificent. The average height of the walls is 12 meters, the average thickness – 5 meters. The total length of the Old City walls is over 4 kilometers (2.49 miles).Jaffa Gate is the starting point for most tourist trails, due to its location on the intersection of western Jaffa Road, which leads from the Mediterranean port of Jaffa (now part of Tel Aviv) and the southern road, which leads to Bethlehem and Hebron.
In the Middle Ages, caravans of merchandise delivered by ships entered the city through Jaffa Gate. It was also the gateway to Jerusalem for Christian pilgrims who made a great spiritual endeavor by traveling to the Holy Land. As an evidence of their pilgrimage, most of them wore Jerusalem crosses over their clothing and were held in great esteem by fellow believers.
Today Jaffa Gate is the most vibrant historic landmark in Jerusalem. Inside is a picturesque square to access the main street and start the visit of the Christian and Armenian Quarters. But first we need to pass the gate.
Inside Jaffa Gate
Jaffa Gate is the only gate of Jerusalem to face west. It was built over the ancient fortress walls in full compliance with the 16th century fortification standards. The entryway stands about 6 meters (20 feet) high. The constructors envisioned that the L-shaped passageway would slow down the attackers and render the breakthrough extremely difficult. Since the time when Jaffa Gate was inaugurated by Suleiman the Magnificent and up until now it has never been used for defensive purposes. In 1917, British general Edmund Allenby entered the Old City without any hindrance through this gate to accept the surrender of Turkish forces — these events were the beginning of British Mandate over the Holy Land.
Jaffa Gate is made of solid and large stones. Despite several architectural modifications made to its structure (both inside and outside) over the course of the last two centuries, today the renovated Jaffa Gate boasts its original appearance.
Jaffa gate Square
Inside Jaffa Gate is a square that connects to the Armenian and Christian Quarters. We will go through the marketplace towards the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher. But before we do, let’s make a stop to take a look around the square. There is a historical Arabic inscription above the gate – it praises Allah and the Ottoman sultan Suleiman who built the Old City walls. Just inside the gate, behind the iron grid lie two tombs. As legend has it, when Suleiman saw that the architects had left some of the buildings out of the enclosure, he ordered them killed. According to another, more prosaic version, this would be the burial place of wealthy citizens who lived during the Ottoman rule and donated large sums of money for fortification works in Jerusalem.There is no doubt regarding the origin of a breach in the wall near Jaffa Gate. It is reliably known that it was made in 1898 for the German emperor Wilhelm II’s carriage and procession to pass – the Turks attached much significance to a worthy reception of their German ally. It is interesting to note that finally Kaiser Wilhelm entered Jerusalem through another gate, but the gap in the wall still exists today.
The beginning of the way
Although the Old City’s area is less than one square kilometers (0.35 square miles), it has the highest concentration of historical landmarks and sacred places in the Holy Land, and probably in the whole world. The Old City was demolished sixteen times and rebuilt again seventeen times. This is the reason for architectural styles of different times and nations interwoven in its urban development.The Holy City has more than 70 names; one of them is “Shalem”, which in Hebrew literally means “full” or “complete” — probably the best indication of Jerusalem’s significance for the world civilization. The Psalmist David and King Solomon, Lord Jesus Christ and the Most Holy Mother of God, prophet Muhammad — are the names related to traditions with billions of followers around the globe. All these traditions are oddly interwoven in the four quarters of the Old City. The Muslim Quarter is the largest and the most populous, but it incorporates not only Islamic landmarks, for the Via Dolorosa — the path that Jesus walked on the way to his crucifixion — starts in this quarter. The Jewish Quarter, which is the most visited in the Old City, has not only the Wailing Wall — the place where Jews from all around the world come to pray, but also Cardo — an ancient Roman street, whose layout was also shaped by the Crusaders. Besides the Cathedral of St. James, which is the principal Armenian church, among other Armenian Quarter’s landmarks are many other institutions and people of other religions involved with art and trades. Our tour to the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher goes across the Christian Quarter, but before we go on, we will change our course a little bit to take a look around.
Tower of David
A little bit away from our itinerary stands the Citadel — home of the Tower of David Museum, which is dedicated to the history of Jerusalem. The city owes its status of the capital of Judah and subsequently of Israel to David — king, prophet and author of the Psalms.
According to the legend and in correspondence with reliable historical records, the site was the palace of King David. In the 2nd century BC a tower was built within the walled area of the city to protect the most vulnerable point of defense. Herod the Great made a fundamental reconstruction, adding three massive towers to fortifications, dedicating them to his brother, his wife and one of his friends. Of the three towers, only the base of one them survived until today – the rest was destroyed after the beleaguered Jerusalem fell to the Roman legions. The museum is located in the ruins of the original citadel.
The dominating position of the Citadel was much appreciated by the Crusaders: it served as a residence for the Kingdom of Jerusalem in 11th–12th centuries. Crusaders increased the height of the tower and surrounded it with a moat. From the Citadel’s height patrols surveyed the Jaffa road to protect thousands of pilgrims traveling to the city — cavalry lookouts were posted to guard the same road on the side of the sea. In 1187, the capital of the Kingdom of Jerusalem was captured and sultan Saladin, who accepted the surrender, ordered his own flag to be planted on the Tower of David. Christians, who had means to pay the ransom or those whose release was paid by the church, left the city through Jaffa Gate. Their less lucky brothers in faith were enslaved by the Muslims. The Citadel was destroyed by conquerors several times and was subsequently rebuilt again. The present-day buildings date back to 14th–16th centuries; there is no conclusive knowledge of their basements’ age.
The Tower of David Museum of the History of Jerusalem is now located in a series of chambers in the original Citadel, which is well worth spending a day to visit! On top of everything else, it’s one of the most popular promenade sites among Jerusalem residents. The Tower of David is also a venue for city festivals, theatricals, concerts and laser shows.
Start of the David Street
When you stand with your back to the Citadel’s entryway, you will see a narrow street hidden in the passage between the houses. This is David Street – the location of the famous “Arab Shuk” marketplace.Before we proceed further into the rows of its shops, there are a few things to know about the Old City’s Christian Quarter before we get to its heart – the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher.
There are not many residential buildings, but many hotels, coffee shops and restaurants to accommodate and cater pilgrims and tourists. Of course there are various stores and small shops, but we will guide you through them a little later.
This is also home of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate and patriarch’s residence, Latin Patriarchate, the Monastery of Saint Savior owned by Franciscans — and a total of forty other Christian holy sites located in this quarter.
In 19th century, in the time of Ottoman rule over the Holy Land, Christian countries sought to expand their presence in Jerusalem and bought land in the area to establish their missions or open monasteries and other religious and nonreligious structures. Germany, France, Austria and Russia were the most active states. In 1898 these four European countries asked the Ottoman authorities for a new gate in the Old City walls for Christian travelers. It was called "The New Gate". By the beginning of the 20th century the flow of visitors increased severalfold due to the opening of the Suez Canal, leading to a population increase in the Christian Quarter of Jerusalem.
David Street 1
The saying “On your way to the Temple you have to cross the marketplace” is true for many world cities and most likely originated from the Old Jerusalem and was later introduced into daily use by pilgrims who entered the Jaffa Gate in the same way we did. It should be noted that the Holy City drew people searching for wisdom long before Christianity, and it’s hard to tell exactly when it began. Alexander the Great, king of Macedon, who is known as the founder of modern western civilization, was looking for answers to some questions that concerned him and asked the wise men who prayed in the Second Temple for their opinions. Although residents of Jerusalem were allies of his enemy – Darius I, king of Persia – Alexander was attracted to them and felt a great respect to venerable old people. As every Greek has a passion for philosophy, he frequently talked with them. Some of their conversations were recorded: “Who is the wisest man on earth?” — asked Alexander.“Wise is the one who knows to ask questions right and to learn from examples of every person he was meant to meet by destiny”, — was the old men’s response.
“Who is the strongest man on earth?” — asked Alexander.
“Strong is the one who can overcome his own weaknesses” — responded the old men.
“Who is the world’s hero?” — asked Alexander.
“Hero is the one who can turn the hater into his loyal friend”.
“Who is the most respected person on earth” — asked the king of Macedon.
“Respected is the one who respects himself” — answered the wise men.
“Who is the richest man on earth” — continued Alexander.
“Rich is the one who is happy with all the things he has”.
“Who is happy on this earth?” — was the king’s last question.
“Happy is the man who found a beautiful wife known for graceful acts” — was the answer.
As legend has it, Alexander the Great was impressed with the terse answers given by Jerusalem’s wise men, climbed up the hill together with them and prayed to their God in the temple’s part open to foreigners.
David Street 2
After crossing the marketplace, we are coming to our destination — the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher. But before we proceed there, let’s take a walk through the Arab bazaar with its shops and souvenir stalls full of diverse gift items: icons, crucifixes and other Christian relics.The marketplace is an indispensable attribute of every city both in ancient times and today. It should be noted that one thousand years before Christ the city of Jerusalem already wasn’t just a center of agriculturally used areas, but as we would call it today, a major world trade hub.
Situated between the heavily populated Egypt and Asia, the city was engaged in trade and arrangement of deals for re-selling of the ancient world’s major transport facilities: ships, horses and chariots. Horses were highly demanded in Egypt, while their own product – skillfully manufactured chariots – were popular among the Asians. The Phoenicians were the best shipbuilders of the time. While a part of the vessels went for sale, most of them made part of the merchant fleet established by king Solomon. These ships brought gold, silver, blackwood, redwood, tiger skins, textiles, incenses, spices and exotic animals from Arabia, India, Africa and unidentified lands of Punt and Ophir to Jerusalem. The city was getting richer.
“And the king made silver to be in Jerusalem as stones, and cedars made he to be as the sycamore trees that are in the vale, for abundance” — this is how the First Book of the Kings describes the King Solomon’s period.
There is a certain overstatement, but the life of Jerusalem residents of that time was truly the city’s golden age.
Cafe for pilgrims
The old Jerusalem was a market town that imported and exported the most demanded products. Besides the aforementioned agricultural products — wheat, oil, fruits and wine — among other popular export items were copper and Jerusalem building stones both abundantly available in the area. Archaeological excavations in the Old City revealed the most popular goods offered at Jerusalem’s market place: alabaster cosmetics cups, bottles of incense, mirrors, tongs and hairclips. All of the above items are still available here today. Women of the old Jerusalem used perfume, face-paint, creams, myrrh anointing oil, henna, balms, cypress bark powder, red nail paint and blue paint used as eye makeup. Today’s choice of perfumes and cosmetics is much wider, but the numerous findings of luxury items made by archaeologists prove that the ancient city was flourishing.At the same time Jerusalem residents’ way of life was quite ascetic: there was no furniture in their homes — even rich people used mats to sit on and to sleep. The local food ration included wheat and cereals, lentil, beans, onions and garlic, fruits, vegetables, milk and honey.
The meat was consumed only on holidays and wine was drunk very moderately. In general, their tables were quite richly furnished for an ancient world country — at the same time the modern choice of food and beverages would seem simply incredible to the old Jerusalem’s residents.
The Christian Quarter 1
The Arab market place, which is on our way to the Temple, is situated between the Christian and Muslim Quarters — at the intersection of the main landmarks and holy places of the Old Jerusalem. You can come across Jews hurrying towards the Western Wall and Muslims going to mosques on Temple Mount; yet most of visitors are Christians heading to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. This is why the local gift stores are full of icons, icon pendants, beautiful paintings performed in various styles and techniques, but thematically related to the Holy Land.One of the most familiar among the Christians worldwide is the Jerusalem Icon of the Mother of God. Tradition has it that the Jerusalem Icon of the Mother of God was painted by the holy Evangelist St. Luke, fifteen years after the Ascension of the Lord and within the lifetime of the Holy Mother. The Bethlehem Icon of the Mother of God was also painted by the holy Evangelist St. Luke, and is the only to depict the Most Holy Mother of God smiling. The original is kept at the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, where it returned after two thousand years of travels. In this period it had time to be the main sacred object of Byzantine Empire, to be given as a gift to Vladimir the Great, who Christianized Russia. In 20th century the Great-martyr Elizabeth Romanova returned the icon to Bethlehem — the place where it was made. This icon is of Hodegetria type (literally “She who shows the Way”), with Mother of God pointing to Child Jesus.
Some of the icons offered at the Arab market’s shops are highly artistic, contain valuable materials and have a special certificate to simplify its export from Israel.
The Christian Quarter 2
Jerusalem’s Arab marketplace that we are going through is a true Eastern bazaar — it’s loud, vibrant and attractive by its diversity. It has everything to offer: spices and incenses, fashion jewelry and souvenirs, locally produced silk handkerchiefs and clothes from China, Middle Eastern sweets that just melt in your mouth and bright Armenian pottery… Many-voiced and hospitable salespeople at the Arab bazaar will tell you everything you need, engaging you into conversation and offering a cup of full-flavored coffee… In many aspects the local marketplace has remained the same as it used to be two thousand years ago when the feet of the Son of a Man — Our Lord Jesus Christ walked on these very stones.The Old City of Jerusalem is also related to the life of the Most Holy Mother of God. Although her family came from Nazareth, in Jerusalem her parents – Joachim and Anne – owned a house, where Virgin Mary was born. She was consecrated by the parents at the Jerusalem Temple at the age of three and remained there until majority, spending time in prayer and needlework.
Virgin Mary spent the first years of her life at the paternal home. At the beginning of Via Dolorosa Street, near the Lions’ Gate, there is a small Greek church dedicated to the Nativity of the Blessed Mary. Underneath there are two caves; one of them has a mosaic sign, marking the Most Holy Mother of God’s birthplace.
People bring fresh flowers to a hollow in the cave, where according to the legend, stood Mary’s cradle… The magnificent Church of Saint Anne was built by the Crusaders on a plot of land that earlier belonged to Joachim and Anne. A very moving sculpture of Anne and the young Mary greets people who enter the basilica.
We will be back to this place on another virtual tour, but for now we go further on across the Arab marketplace.
The Christian Quarter 3
The Arab market is open every day of the week except Friday, from early morning until dusk. It’s very easy to tell the tourists, who go crazy turning their heads in all directions of the noisy shops from the unhurried locals, who know well what they need and where to get it.The air is filled with the aroma of oriental spices that are presented in a large variety on stalls. Souvenirs and jewelry, clothes to meet every fancy, bright shawls and wide Turkish pants… On the stone-block pavement lie Persian carpets — the sellers demonstrate the high quality of these products that are dustproof and retain their vivid colors forever.
The Arab market that we’re visiting in the Christian Quarter is certainly not the only one in Jerusalem. Every Thursday there is a small market in Kikar Hatulot Street, which is filled up with stalls offering all kinds of vintage artworks. Gourmets and people who love exotic products will be delighted to visit the open-air marketplace Mahane Yehuda on Jaffa Road, which is considered to be the best food market in Jerusalem… Well…Let’s return to the Arab market and continue our route to the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher and historical landmarks in its vicinity.
Turn on the St Elena Street
Since we decided to take a look at what the local stores and shops have to offer, let me say a few words about the colorful local potteries, so popular among the tourists from all over the world who come to visit Jerusalem. Part of them are Persian-style — such pottery works can be frequently seen in the markets of Iran and Arab countries, but most products offered in Jerusalem are Armenian ceramics made in compliance with tricks of the trade that have been handed down from father to son for many generations. Ceramic tableware, tiles and vases featuring distinctive ornaments and symbols are hand crafted locally by artisans from the Armenian Quarter of Jerusalem, while a minor part is made by craftsmen of Hebron and Samaria. One way or another, all these works belong to the Jerusalem school of Armenian ceramics. Numerous research papers on the subject have been written in Israel and many exhibitions in prestigious museums have been dedicated to the traditional Armenian craftsmanship, which became part of the local heritage a long time ago.The origins of Armenian porcelain in Jerusalem date back to ancient times, but the true renaissance of ceramics art began after massacres committed by the Turks in 1915, when many Armenian artisans were forcibly deported and by a twist of fate settled in the Holy Land. In 1919 at the time of British mandate in Palestine, the local authorities invited David Ohanessian, a master painter of ceramic decoration, to restore the tile work on the Dome of the Rock. He brought other Armenian ceramics workers, including the master potter Nishan Balian, and the painter Megerdish Karakashian, who later founded Armenian ceramics schools that have many followers in Israel.
Of course, the ceramics offered at the Arab market of Jerusalem are mostly commercial off-the-shelf products. However, they retain the unique features of the famous centuries-old Armenian art known throughout the world.
St Elena Street 1
“International Middle Eastern market” — such signs in Arab and English languages are frequently to be seen at the Arab marketplace. However, when visiting Jerusalem most people shop for Holy Land gifts that are offered here in a wide selection. We are going to take a few moments to note the most popular and interesting things to bring home as a souvenir of Israel for yourself and your closed ones.
Dead Sea cosmetics rich with unique minerals and salts are known for their great benefits. These products richly nourish the skin and hair and will be a great gift idea for women. The available range of cosmetics consists of peeling creams, peel-off masks, creams, shampoos, soaps, hair conditioners and many more — if you don’t want to get lost in this variety, your right choice would be to buy a gift set consisting of up to a dozen items.
Silver jewelry is a true mark of pride for Israeli artisans. The local craftsmanship is very delicate, original, recognizable, and fascinates many tourists. It should be also noted that jewelry with diamonds and other precious and semiprecious stones in Jerusalem is generally less expensive than in European countries.
St Elena Street 2
The Arab market is also the right place to choose fashion jewelry, souvenirs and other gifts for friends and colleagues — the abundance of these items is incredible.One of the most interesting objects of this kind would be hamsa — a palm-shaped amulet containing an eye symbol. The history of this talisman goes deep into ancient times: in thousands years it took many names, such as “The hand of Hamesh” or “The hand of Mary”… The hamsa is believed to provide defense against the evil eye; now many people in Israel wear it as a decorative work, as it frequently appears on necklaces or key chains.
Same story is with the red wool string worn on the wrist — it’s meant to protect the wearer from danger or to help with the realization of a wish, which should happen about the time the thread wears out. At the same time it’s one of the most popular Jewish souvenirs around the world and a thing many people want to get from Israel. There is a belief that a red string was wound around Rachel’s tomb — the Hebrew matriarch who wept for the Jews taken into exile by Babylonian conquerors.
Recreational athletes will most certainly like matkot — a local paddle game, where you don’t need a table; it can be played virtually anywhere, even on the beach. The Five Stones will be a great gift idea for an assiduous person — this ancient game develops coordination and motor skills.
Your friends who like exotic food will be happy to taste hummus — a thick paste or spread made from ground chickpeas and other items such as cardamom coffee, olives or dates brought from Jerusalem. Due to restrictions on carry-on liquids, the local sharp wines are to be tasted locally. The most recommended ones are the rimon — a pomegranate wine and currant wines.
Descent to the Temple
As the Christian Quarter was built around the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher, the local souvenir shops offer many religious items, while some of them specialize in selling church supplies.You can buy here a rare icon’s depiction, a cross necklace or candles of a special form — the things you won’t find at home. Local shops offer a great selection of Middle Eastern incenses that are a rare find in most countries.
Don’t be surprised if the shop assistant starts talking to you using your native language — Russian, Greek, English or another. Jerusalem is a city of many languages and the knowledge of an additional one enhances the likelihood of making more sales. That’s why most merchants here master at least a few dozen words in foreign languages to improve their business receipts.
Since Jerusalem is not only the cradle of western civilization, but also a Middle Eastern city, it will be a sign of good manners to engage into bargaining — this is usual here! That’s why upon hearing the cost for an item of interest, don’t hesitate to offer your own price and make it some 30-40% down. That should work.
Temple square
It’s interesting to know that some of ecclesiastical objects can be found only in the Holy Land. For example, blessed salt is related to the phrase “You are the salt of the earth” from the Gospel of Matthew. This is exactly what they do with this common substance found in every household — it’s blessed on the greatest shrine — the Stone of Anointing. It’s up to you to decide, but research results prove that the salt’s structure “retains” the characteristics of the places where it’s been. All the more so as it was blessed.Chrism — a mixture of local oil and balsam, produced according to an order of service — will be another great Holy Land gift for one of your faithful friends.
If you’re not sure whether the goods offered at the marketplace have been consecrated and you want to be sure of owning a blessed cross, icon, candle or incense from Jerusalem, feel free to use our service “Holy Land products home delivery”, which is available anywhere in the world thanks to “Jerusalem Candle” project.
Exit from Temple square
Finally, leaving behind the labyrinth of shopping arcades, we come to a square in front of the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher. Feel free to press the interactive button on the gates to begin the “Temple of the Holy Sepulcher” tour. You can also make it later and until then continue our sightseeing tour of its surroundings.The Temple of the Holy Sepulcher contains: the site where the Savior was crucified, the place where he was entombed and the site where He resurrected — these events are the crucial points of gospel narratives. The graceful building of the church was destroyed three times, was once damaged by the fire and every time it was rebuilt again.
Historically, two front doors allowed access to the Temple. However, only one is currently accessible, as the other was bricked up in the days of the Muslim rule.
On the right from the entry is located the tomb of Philippe D'Aubigny — the knight who accompanied the Roman emperor Frederick II on his crusade in the 13th century.
The column of the Holy Fire, split by the lightning in 1643 (1579?!) remembers the day when Orthodox and Greek priests argued on who is to conduct the service on the Holy Saturday. In the heat of this argument a lightning struck the column, splitting it and lit the Holy Fire… Today, five different Christian communities hold their religious services in the church, according to an established order of priority, but only an Orthodox patriarch has the right to pray in the Aedicule on Easter’s eve and meet the Holy Fire.
The Immovable Ladder is another Temple’s artifact, which is visible from outside. For many centuries it has symbolized the respect of ancient traditions and the compliance with made commitments. The ladder is referred to as “immovable” due to a mutual understanding of the present ecumenical orders that neither of Christian confessions may introduce even slightest changes to the property inside the Temple of the Holy Sepulcher without the consent of other orders.
In the meantime we will go round the church and continue our walk along the nearby Muristan Street — to see another historical landmark.
Muristan street 3
Jerusalem’s Christian Quarter is home to many houses of worship and official buildings, as well as to historical churches that represent Orthodox, Catholic, Protestant and other Christian confessions, including the Lutheran Church.The latter owns the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer — a masterpiece of Romanesque Revival architecture — you can see its bell tower. It was built in the end of the 19th century and was dedicated on Reformation Day in the presence of German emperor Wilhelm II within the framework of his visit to Jerusalem in 1898 — the one that we mentioned earlier. The church was constructed upon the remnants of a crusader church dedicated to St. John. The inaccessible north entry retained traces of medieval work, including the signs of the zodiac. St. John’s Chapel is located on the medieval site of the old pilgrim hostel and convent named St. Mary Latine Minor in the time of the Crusaders. In the seventies the Church of the Redeemer went through a major reconstruction — in particular, picturesque mosaics were added both inside and outside.
Turn on the David Street
The interior of the Church of the Redeemer is also very attractive. Its cozy stone courtyard is surrounded with arched galleries; inside stands a pipe organ, which is frequently used for church concerts. The services are held in German, Arabic and English.The building itself belongs to a Hanover-based Evangelical Jerusalem Foundation, who is also the owner of the Chapel of the Ascension located on the Mount of Olives — we will be visiting it on one of our next virtual tours.
If you climb up 178 steps to the top of the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer’s bell tower, you will have a chance to enjoy an unforgettable panoramic view of the Old City’s four quarters — Christian, Muslim, Armenian and Jewish Quarters. This is probably the most magnificent view of the Holy City — the best spot to finish our sightseeing tour.
As the Psalmist David put it, “If I forget thee, O Jerusalem, my right hand shall forget its skill”. Indeed, it is impossible to forget a visit to Jerusalem.
- Walls of the Old city
- Jaffa gate
- Inside Jaffa Gate
- Jaffa gate Square
- The beginning of the way
- Tower of David
- Start of the David Street
- David Street 1
- David Street 2
- Cafe for pilgrims
- The Christian Quarter 1
- The Christian Quarter 2
- The Christian Quarter 3
- Turn on the St Elena Street
- St Elena Street 1
- St Elena Street 2
- Descent to the Temple
- Temple square
- Exit from Temple square
- Muristan street 3
- Turn on the David Street
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